Fifty years ago, three industrious Turkish brothers in Havza, near Türkiye’s tea-growing region along the Black Sea, fabricated a modern chromium steel version of the traditional samovar. These storied vessels, fired by wood or coal, brew tea while keeping large volumes of hot water on tap.
The Sözen brothers were skilled copper, bronze, aluminum, and steel metalworkers. Their compact, easily disassembled design for Sözenler Semavers (the Turkish word for tea-urn) is now the nation’s most popular brand.
Years ago, my wife, Susan, presented me with a four-liter Sözenler samovar, ideally suited for enjoying the setting sun. We set it up under the flagpole at our family cottage on Lake of the Woods, a deep and clear 300-mile-long lake in Western Ontario.
In September, as the summer days shorten and the sun begins to fade, our grandchildren stuffed kindling and split pine branches to stuff into the samovar’s gated furnace. We toasted marshmallows before I placed the reservoir over the fire. Next, I extend the chimney. The young boys stoke the furnace with hardwood hickory chips until it burns red hot. Then, I scoop a fine Ceylon tea into a metal teapot that sits neatly in flue amid a steady stream of steam from the boiling reservoir.
Once the tea is brewed into a potent concentrate, we pour it into tin cups and add hot water, sugar, jam, honey, and cream. Unlike an English teapot, everyone can dilute the tea to their taste. Strong or light, creamy or clear, the tea tastes lovely as we sit back in our Adirondack and bid farewell to the sun.
Steam in flue heats teapotRed copper teapotCopper teapot
Ornate Russian samovars, whose name is derived from “camo” samo, meaning “self,” and “varit,” meaning “to boil’,” are better known, but samovars were invented in Central Asia. The utilitarian, easily disassembled version originated in Bukhara, Türkiye. Caravans carried samovars to the Caucasus, where different styles evolved in Russia, Iran, East and Far East Asia, and Anatolia. Turkish samovars are seen at weddings, family picnics, public ceremonies, and outdoor social gatherings in sizes up to 50 liters, with flues supporting four large teapots.
Co-founder Azmi Sözen writing on the company website, describes Sözenlar samovars as “especially for picnics, evening chats, hosting guests specific to Turks, village houses, weddings, associations, and coffee houses. Samovar tea is very famous, and it is drunk in palaces, mansions, hunting parties, and special ceremonies.”
The first documented Russian samovars appeared in the mid-18th century. By 1778, the craftsmen in Tula, located about 200 kilometers south of Moscow, were famous for producing heavy urns of ornate sterling silver, bronze, and distinctive copper teapots. Symbols of Russian hospitality and domesticity, Samovars were family heirlooms.
Co-founder Azmi Sözen
In paintings, copper and bronze samovars with a capacity of 5 to 15 liters appear at the foot of the table, spread with cakes, sugar tongs, and jam, with young and old in conversation over tea.
Persian samovars can be seen in chaikhanas (chaykanas – tea houses) in Tehran, Tabriz, and Isfahan. “Samovar is an indispensable pleasure of Islamic society during Ramadan and long winter nights,” writes Azmi.
Azem, Adem, and Azmi Sözen began making samovars in a small workshop in 1974 and have since expanded to a 6,000-square-meter factory with a public showroom and warehouse. “Our company, which accepts quality as a way of life, has established its power, discipline, self-sacrificing, and reliable trained masters and employees,” according to Sözenler.
“Market expansion did not occur spontaneously,” writes Azmi, but growth continues worldwide. Our mission is to popularize the samovar culture inherited from our ancestors and to pass it on to future generations,” writes Sözenler
“Tea is not just a drink of pleasure but also a culture. Poems, folk songs, and odes were sung in samovar tea ceremonies, which gave people peace and preserved their place in memories.”
Our company, which set out with this understanding, is primarily aware that it is a part of this culture and has increased its production every day to carry the cultural and historical heritage to future generations over time.
Sözenler Semaver showroom and factory, Havza, Türkiye
India Tea News | Aravinda AnantharamanTea bonus protests, arson and looting led to one death and several injured
Kenya’s Annual Tea Bonus Brings Strife
By Dan Bolton
Disappointing bonus payments angered tea workers at several Kenya Tea Development Agency (KTDA) factories and led to violent and, in one instance, deadly protests. Protesting smallholders questioned the accounting and fairness of apportioned funds.
The Nation reports approximately 612,000 small-scale growers qualified for the estimated final bonus for sales through June.
Kenya Tea News reported that Principal Secretary of Agriculture Dr. Paul Rono has directed the Tea Board of Kenya (TBK) to audit all KTDA financial commitments and operations and all its assets.
KTDA National Chairman Enos Njeru reassured smallholder tea farmers that the bonus figures announced by factory directors adhered to the established accounting standards.
Njeru said figures released by the factory companies are prepared in compliance with International Accounting Standards (IAS) and International Financial Reporting Standards (IFRS) as governed by the Institute of Certified Public Accountants (ICPK).
“KTDA Management Service is an ISO-certified company and is bound to comply with these standards for the proper running of factory companies,” Njeru said in a statement.
At the end of the 2023/24 fiscal year, President William Ruto estimated that KTDA earnings had increased by KSh30 billion and predicted that farmers would earn a record average bonus of KSh 70 shillings. The average is far less.
Tea exports set a record $1.4 billion (KSh181 billion) in sales in 2023, a $950 million increase from an outstanding harvest totaling 523 million kilos. A further KSh16.4 billion was sold locally for a total of Ksh197 billion about $1.525 billion USD).
However, the improvement in farmers’ payments this year is mainly due to the devaluation of the shilling, as dollar prices remain flat.
Last October, tea farmers received a Ksh 44 billion bonus in addition to KSh 24 billion in monthly payments totaling Ksh 67.67 billion (about $525 million USD). KTDA manages 69 factories, of which 17 operate as satellite units. KTDA growers harvested 1.13 billion kilos of green leaf and produced 267 million kilos of made tea.
The large export sales total raised expectations, but the annual bonus, calculated for each of the 56 KTDA-owned factories, is based on average annual sales of tea, with fewer monthly payments to growers. The cost of operations and factory overhead is then subtracted, and the remaining sum is distributed based on how many kilos each grower contributed to the total. About 45 million kilos of tea (from roughly 225 million kilos of green leaf) remain unsold.
In Bomet County, a 28-year-old protestor was killed and two others seriously injured when anti-riot police fired on looters who breached the Mogogosiek factory gate In Kirinyaga County, hundreds of tea farmers took to the streets rejecting a KSh 46 per kilo bonus.
Growers carried signs reading “Reject the peanuts” and “Kwani ni mayai,” which in Kiswahili translates as “Is it a payment for eggs?”
At the Miciimikuru factory in Meru County, protesting workers angrily set fire to 12 acres of factory-owned fields after learning their annual tea bonus was only 35 shillings. Factory board chair Stephen Kathiri told Business Daily, “Since last year, we have not sold orthodox tea and are stuck with 786,000 kilograms worth KSh 353 million at the warehouse. This negatively affected our cash flow, leading to lower pay.”
In contrast, workers at the Ngere factory earned 62, those at Nduti 60.9, Imenti 60.3, and Gathuthi 57 shillings (an increase of 13 shillings compared to last year). Workers at the Githongo factory were happy with 56 shillings; at Githambo, they were angry despite a 42 shillings per kilo bonus. This is because the newly elected board estimated the bonus would be 60 shillings when running for election last month, only to disappoint.
At the Gitugi Tea Factory, the board approved the KSh 53 per kilo bonus payment, a KSh 4 reduction from what farmers were paid last year.
The bonuses at factories west of the Great Rift Valley were meager, with workers at eight factories earning less than 25 shillings. Nyamache workers received 20 shillings, as did those at Mokama, Mwamu, Mogogo, Kapset, and Rorok. The average bonus south of the Rift was KSh 23. Bonus payments at Nyeri’s five major KTDA factories ranged from KSh 45.5 to 57.3 shillings per kilo.
“The west of the Rift has been affected more by the building up of stocks due to the minimum price, and its factories are the ones paying the lowest bonus,” writes Alfred Njagi, former Managing Director of KTDA Management Services Ltd.
“There are a few exceptions like Momul, which has a high-quality culture, so it’s pay-is-the-best in the West and even beating some of the factories in the East,” said Njagi.
Nyankoba’s 19,244 growers will be paid a KSh40 bonus per kg of green tea sold by the factory, an increase of Sh5 from the Sh35 they earned from last year’s crop but nowhere near the hundreds of shillings per kilo in final bonuses that were paid to growers in past years.
SPOTLIGHT
Lakeside samovar at Lake of the Woods, Ontario, Canada
Samovar Tea at Sunset
Fifty years ago, three industrious Turkish brothers in Havza near Türkiye’s tea-growing region along the Black Sea, fabricated a modern chromium steel version of the traditional samovar. These storied vessels, fired by wood or coal, brew tea while keeping large volumes of hot water on tap.
The Sözen brothers were skilled copper, bronze, aluminum, and steel metalworkers. Their compact, easily disassembled design for Sözenler Semavers (the Turkish word for tea-urn) is now the nation’s most popular brand.
With the festival season coming up in India, this is the time of year when tea gardens in the north announce the annual bonus. In North Bengal (Darjeeling and Dooars) for the first time eight major tea garden workers’ trade unions decided to unite as a united front. The bonus is decided between the unions and planters associations and ranges from a minimum of 8.33% of the worker’s annual earnings to 20%. In the second round of talks held in Kolkata this week, the unions began their negotiations with 19% while the planters said they will not be able to pay in excess of 10%. A third round of discussions is expected around the 20-21 of this month. Talks in Assam have not begun yet.
FAITTA Meet In Guwahati, Assam
The 10th annual meeting of the Federation of All India Tea Traders Association took place at Guwahati last week. Speaking at the meeting, Sanjay Shah, the association’s chairman noted an increase in packet tea over loose tea. He also expressed concern about the market’s inability to absorb recent price increases. He noted that Indian exports are gradually improving and 2023 saw 228 mn kilos exported while in 2024, tea prices surged by 46%. Mr Shah also added that the FAITTA have submitted a food safety roadmap for tea to the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) for good agricultural practices involving integrated pest management.
Following a tea board meeting this week, plans are underway to revive the regional cooperative tea factories in Kangra. Four cooperative factories were established in Kangra between 1964 and 1981, but three of them shut down, and only the one in Palampur remains open. With the growing small tea grower segment, reopening and upgrading the factories could benefit farmers. The Hindustan Times quoted Kangra Valley Small Tea Planters Association president Suksham Butail as saying it could benefit 250 small tea growers and support the livelihood of 6,000 individuals.
Tata and HUL may increase tea prices
Supply of tea has been hit this year, with climatic conditions being a significant reason. The surge in tea prices stems from a sharp decline in production. Tea production dropped by about 13% from January to July, impacting prices. July auction prices in North India increased by 21% from last year. August saw a further rise in auction prices in Kolkata and Siliguri. Coonoor and Cochin also saw a price rise of 37% and 21% respectively. The impact of price rise was seen in CTC more than orthodox. This is expected to impact retail prices from the top two packeteers in India, Hindustan Unilever (Lipton, Taj Mahal, Brooke Bond) and Tata Consumer Products (Tata Tea, Tetley, Kanan Devan, Agni, etc.). Incidentally, share prices of several listed tea companies, including Jayshree Tea and United Nilgiri Tea Estates, surged on Wednesday thanks to increased procurement costs. Business Today
CAG report highlights the inadequate implementation of labor laws
A recent Comptroller and Auditor General report highlighted inadequacies in implementing labor laws in Assam. The audit on Implementation of Schemes for the Welfare of Tea Tribe, for 2015-16 to 2020-21, assessed the implementation of welfare schemes for the tea tribes across Cachar, Dibrugarh, Nagaon, and Sonitpur. There are 390 tea estates in these zones, of which 40 were selected for the audit based on plantation size and worker count. The audit included records and interviews with 590 workers. Some of the areas highlighted are insufficient intervention by the state in aligning wages with the Minimum Wage Act (MW Act), inadequate efforts to improve workers’ conditions, wage disparities between Barak Valley and the Brahmaputra Valley, poor implementation of welfare schemes, and lack of reports and data as mandated. Pratidin Time
Tea festivals are enjoying a resurgence, basking in the renewed enthusiasm of health-conscious consumers and the joy of imbibing quality tea. The 14th Annual Northwest Tea Festival draws tea enthusiasts to Seattle for two educational and fun days at the Seattle Center on September 28th and 29th. The Northwest Tea Festival has a rich history in tea, evolving from a small local event to become the foremost social gathering for tea lovers in a region known for its beverages.
Founders Doug Livingston and Julee Rosanoff chat with Tea Biz Podcast Host Dan Bolton
How it Came About
Julie Rosanoff is a pioneer in specialty tea dating to 1990 when she co-founded the Perennial Tea Room near the Seattle waterfront. In 2004, Julee hosted tea-themed dinners there, with author Norwood Pratt narrating the story of teas as courses were served. Tastings and special events led to the founding of the Puget Sound Tea Education Association and the region’s first tea party featuring Barnes & Watson, Teahouse Kuan Yin, Tea Geek (Michael Coffey), Sa Tea, Village Yarn & Tea, and Choice Organic Tea. Inspired by the mass tastings hosted by Bay Area tea firms for the 50,000 foodies attending the first Slow Food Nation in September 2008, the Northwest Tea Festival, a not-for-profit venture, launched to wide acclaim later that month.
Dan: The Northwest Tea Festival is a genuine specialty tea experience, a social gathering of respected speakers and vendors with a delightfully appreciative audience. Julee, tell us what inspired you to get involved in hosting the event.
Julee: Author and tea expert Norwood Pratt inspired me to start the festival. He attended a meeting of several key vendors in Seattle then, and he said that no one was celebrating the 400th anniversary of the House of Orange importing tea to Amsterdam, which is the origin of orange pekoe. So we said, We’ll do it, and we spent a year sorting it out, and the following year, we had our first tea festival, and we’ve had them every year since then, except for COVID, where we were down for three years. Now we’re back. I didn’t know what would happen the first year we did it. The most exciting thing for me was having 500 people standing in line waiting to get in that first day, all having a wonderful time. I think we only had about seven booths, and it was a wonderful thing. Everybody had a good time. And they all said, We want to come back, please do it again.
On the morning of the first day, there is a line out the door, down the street, and around the block, and it is just fabulous to see all these people waiting to have tea.
That’s how it started.
Founders Julee Rosanoff and Doug Livingston with Author Norwood Pratt
Continued…
Joining us today are founders Julee Rosanoff and Doug Livingston.
Dan: Doug, has organizing the festival changed your view of tea?
Doug: My view expanded quite a bit when I considered how to present tea to somebody else and not just focus on myself. I also considered bringing in speakers to talk about the culture behind tea and all the various social aspects of tea nationwide. While working on the show, I became more engrossed in tea.
Doug Livingston
I did my homework and learned a lot more, and I was able to contact some amazing people, not only locally but nationally and internationally, either in person or via some media. So, yeah, it changed me and grew my understanding, appreciation, and love of tea. It’s hard to measure, but it had a huge impact.
Dan: That’s a wonderful story about the show’s origin. I’ve attended several events and found new activities as they matured. Will you give listeners a glimpse of what will happen this year? What makes this year’s show special?
Julee: We’re still coming out of COVID, reorganizing and getting ourselves, and Doug and I, after 17 years, are stepping back a bit. What makes this year special is that new people are in charge. They’re working very hard, and they’re doing an incredible job. Some things will be different, and some things will be the same. It will be very exciting watching them succeed with all this new experience and responsibility they haven’t had before. It’s going to be great to see.
Dan: Will you tell us, Doug, a little about the venue and the show’s layout? Doug: Over the years, we’ve moved around many venues. It’s always been centered in the downtown Seattle Center complex. The current venue is an exhibition hall. Our attendance right now is somewhere around 3500 people. Up to 5,060 have attended in past years, including vendors. It’s a large exhibition hall with space for a lot of presentations. An exhibition floor area and areas are partitioned around the perimeter for other events, presentations, or workshops.
Others on our planning committee brought in the tea lounge concept. They’ve developed it and turned it into a very exciting way of allowing people to experience tea rather than just walking around between vendors sipping tea, which is essential. This offers a little bit more interaction, which is kind of between the formal presentations and workshops. It’s very accessible to people, and it’s been very well received.
Dan: I want to focus momentarily on an emerging trend — retailing tea by offering memorable experiences. Everyone in America knows what tea is, but millions have simply not experienced or enjoyed the exquisite taste of high-quality specialty premium tea.
Julee, will you describe how the festival makes it easy for someone who is a commodity tea drinker to be awakened to the culture, style, and taste of tea?
Julee: First, people come in to see maybe 40 or 50 vendors, all of whom have their version of exquisite tea. Everybody who attends is given a teacup, which will hold about two ounces of tea, and as they walk around, they can sample all the teas that vendors are brewing all day long for two days. When they ask questions, the vendors will have plenty of information. They’re going to find a lot of samples if there’s something someone likes, they can take some home. If they don’t like it, they can throw it out and start again — that happens because our ability to taste must grow and develop, and you might not welcome specialty if you’ve been drinking Lipton tea bags. There is a wide range of what people can try and taste, just with the vendors.
And then, if they go to the Tea Bar, they can sit and try different teas and have them three or four different times; you know that they’ll re-steep because re-steeping is only possible with exquisite teas. People who are not used to it will find it a whole new experience. And so, people can have a wide range of varieties and experiences that will awaken their taste buds and their sensitivity to tea and its wonderful range of experiences and flavors.
Dan: Doug, what’s going through their mind when someone’s face lights up after tasting these teas?
Doug: Well, a lot of different things. As you know, giving somebody an experience that is new and different to them is one of the core things of the tea festival. Our tea festival isn’t a commercial event. It’s not a trade show where vendors sell to other businesses; our focus is on the person drinking the tea and when they light up and realize there’s an aspect to it that they didn’t realize before. That’s growth for them. That’s personal growth, that’s enjoyment, that’s delight, that’s education, and all of those are core goals of the event.
And when we see that happen, we know we’re doing what we’re trying to do.
There’s nothing wrong with drinking commodity teas. There’s nothing sacred about having to find the most exquisite oolongs and so forth. The idea is the experience and its social aspects. And that was also one of the biggest challenges with COVID: the social aspects. Being able to see that response from people and experience that exchange that back and forth was so truncated because socially, we couldn’t be social as much. And you know, with all the media that came in and became available, that helped a lot and certainly expanded the capacity to do that from a great distance. So yes, we can do a Zoom, Facebook, or FaceTime thing and share that experience with someone you know, who will smile and make noises of enjoyment. We can vicariously experience reaching out to somebody. Tea is a social beverage. That is why it’s so ingrained in so many societies at a very basic level. That is the core value of tea. Ours is not a tea culture where you don’t have meetings without tea. In some societies, it’s like being properly dressed; it becomes an important part of the experience.
So, yes, that is a long answer to describe the experience that tea is all about.
“For me, this is a way for 3000 people to reunite with friends. People always talk about who they’ve met. I can’t wait to see this person or that person. Boy, I came from St Louis or Montreal to hang out with these five people in a comfortable place, which is always accommodating. I share experiences with people I’ve known, in some cases, for almost two decades.” — Andrew Goodman
Doug: The festival celebrates this amazing beverage that has captivated the world. We, as organizers, try to maintain a setting and structure so everybody involved can have an enjoyable time, whether it’s an exhibitor, an attendee, somebody doing a workshop, a volunteer, or a staff member working at the festival. We really work to make this an enjoyable and learning event, and that’s why education is so important. We’re looking at the experience of everybody around this whole subject of tea and how people can share that experience, whether they’re a presenter or whether they’re a consumer, whether they’re somebody who’s trying to start a business.
Dan: Julee, picture yourself as a carnival barker inviting passersby to purchase a ticket to the show.
Julee: Come to the tea festival and learnabout a drink you probably already like. You’ll also meet people who share your enthusiasm and will show you new ways to drink and enjoy tea.
There will be more people to meet, new friends, and an opportunity to expand your cultural experience throughout the world. You will meet people from all over the world. It’s going to be very exciting. Don’t miss it!
Josh Brock of the Empty Tea Cup (standing), Barbara and Ward Everson, Charles Dawson, Anais Dawson (standing), and Diarmuid Fahy (baseball cap). The Eversons and the Dawsons are semi-officially representing Whatcom Tea, a Western Washington Tea Education Club we have run for almost 20 years. Anais Dawson is pictured assisting the main Tea Bar but typically runs the Tea Tutorial Table. Photo courtesy Charles Dawson
Tea Bar & Lounge
The Tea Lounge is on the east side of the Exhibition Hall. It is open throughout the afternoon and serves various kinds of tea at tables with fun themes.
Tea Tutorial Table
The Tea Tutorial Table is a space for a slower-paced educational exploration of teas lasting fifteen to twenty minutes. Participants will be guided in depth through a tea or series of teas.
Tea Bar
The Tea Bar is a space for short, three—to five-minute intensive tastings. These will typically compare two similar teas, contrast related but dissimilar teas, or focus on one very special tea. The Tea Bar was created by Charles and Laurie Dawson, founders of Whatcom Tea. All the teas they share are from their personal collection. The sharing is, without expectations, part of their mission to make tea accessible, affordable, and fun. The tea bar is kid-friendly, and children participating in the tea bar may walk away with something extra!
Tea Barista Table
The Barista Table is a place to taste a quick cup of one of the many teas found at the festival. We will brew finds from the festival and, if you like, point you in the right direction so you can acquire some of your own. Standing room only!
Tea Guest Table
The Tea Guest Table is a space for knowledgeable members of the tea community to share their love of and experience with aspects of tea. This may include in-depth tastings, demonstrations of teaware and techniques, fun contests, or blind tasting events. Depending on the presentation, session length may vary considerably.
The Empty Tea Cup
The Empty Tea Cup is a place to rest. After participating in several aspects of the tea industry, Josh Brock concluded that the best way to support tea is to share it in its basic forms. To expose others to the fundamental element of tea that unites all cultures, generations, ceremonies, and sincere hospitality.
PS: Those coming to the festival don’t have to go to the market anymore to grab lunch. We have selectively added a few very nice people with delicious cakes, pies, and savories. So it can be an all-day event if you wish to do it that way. Some people pack lunch. In addition to the beautiful teaware, we have people who make honey, and all kinds of specialty products focused on tea. The festival is truly an immersive experience with Camellia sinensis. – Andrew Goodman
CLICK TO CONTINUE reading the interview and see a preview the new Tea Bar & Lounge
Northwest Tea Festival | Seattle Center: Exhibition Hall 301 Mercer Street, Seattle, WA 98109 Saturday, September 28 – 10 am – 4 pm Sunday, September 29 – 10 am – 4 pm
Lindsay Lohan TV Ad Advocates Office Tea Breaks | Suez Shipping Disruptions Intensify | China Launches Global Tea Marketing Initiative | Kenya Suspends Auction Price Minimums on Old Tea | AI Models Predict Local Weather on a Planetary Scale. | Dan Bolton | Episode 182 | 23 August 2024
