• New Protocols to Evaluate Specialty Tea

    The International Specialty Tea Association (ISTA) announced that it has developed evaluation protocols and assembled a panel of tasters who share a common lexicon and have calibrated their sensory expertise to consistently judge tea quality, based on the skill of tea makers that is evident in the cup.

    • Caption: ISTA spokesperson Andrew McNeill on completing the first phase of tea evaluation protocols.
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    International Specialty Tea Association spokesman Andrew McNeill with Seven Cups Fine Chinese Teas


    International Specialty Tea Association founder Austin Hodge with tasters at evaluation stations in the ProSense Consumer Research Center

    ISTA Evaluations Based on the Tea Maker’s Skill

    By Dan Bolton

    During the past 14 months, ISTA worked closely with the Tucson-based ProSense Consumer Research Center to establish new protocols useful in evaluating a wide variety of specialty teas. Now that the protocols and panel are in place, the first full-panel descriptive analysis will be of black tea due to its commercial importance and high variability.

    The Association writes that “Producers of black tea, new and old, are seeking a sustainable market for high-value, high-skill specialty products and need a system that recognizes and rewards tea makers for that effort.”

    Dan Bolton: Will you tell our listeners about the organization?

    Andrew McNeill: ISTA was founded as an education and research organization, a nonprofit. Over the last few years, our main project has been to develop evaluation standards, a framework for the evaluation of specialty tea, to give some shape to the premium tea products that producers are making tea and, increasingly, what consumers are buying.

    Internationally, there aren’t a lot of standards that govern the quality and unlike other beverages, coffee, namely, where there are specific thresholds for what you could call a specialty coffee, there isn’t really a threshold or a uniform way of defining a specialty tea.  

    There are lots of different systems of evaluating teas of different origins, different qualities. But there isn’t really a lot of unification and agreement on how to evaluate your tea and what aspects you should be looking for.  

    Our project is trying to develop a system that can do just that.

    Dan: The first challenge then was for ISTA to determine the common characteristics of well-made tea. To do so you enlisted Dr. Rena Shifren an academic with 30 years of experience in sensory evaluation and owner of ProSense Consumer Research Center.

    Andrew: Over the past 14 months, Dr. Shifren, and her panel of tasters with ISTA have trained, calibrated, and experimented piloting a system for evaluating tea based on the skill of its tasters. The goal of this descriptive analysis panel included inventing the evaluation protocol, developing a shared lexicon that’s anchored in aroma and flavor references, and drafting a style guide.

    It’s of course a challenging feat to pull off; something that can recognize commonalities of quality across the broad range of styles and preferences and regions that make up the tea industry globally.

    What we’ve done for this project is train a panel to identify the sensory attributes of tea. Specifically what we focused on is identifying what are the commonalities of well-made tea. The goal here is to look at the skill of the tea maker. We want to find how that is reflected universally.

    Dan Bolton: Soon after the panel began its work, COVID-19 infections reached new highs.

    Andrew: Because participants in the project are from all over the country, all over the globe, it’s totally been conducted remotely which has been quite a challenge.

    We’ve had some fits and starts getting things in place, but it’s also been a really important proving ground. The goal of this system is to have calibration in remote settings so tea that’s evaluated for certain qualities at origin can be evaluated in the same way at its destination, and even by its end-user.

    If we’ve created a system that can serve all these different points in the supply chain, then we’re doing something right.

    ProSense Tea Evaluation Lab
    ProSense Tea Evaluation Lab

    “What’s integral for us at this point, is feedback from tea producers, people who are operating at origin, who are advancing the specialty tea industry, who are putting out a premium tea product, or at least aspiring to that.”

    – Andrew McNeill

    Dan: How does one go about becoming certified as a taster who understands the standards and can apply them?

    Andrew: We are still in the R&D phase here but we know ultimately that anybody who wants to train and calibrate with the system can do so. We’ve hit a milestone here but we’re still in the building phase. Next, we’ve got to really stress test it, if you will. So far we’ve looked at very established styles of what is generally recognized as premium tea or specialty tea. But we want to apply this to styles that maybe are newer, or maybe are emerging as a premium product, whereas before there weren’t. And so these challenges, we have to pick those up first.

    Also, we have to make sure we’re building a useful system. What’s integral for us at this point, is feedback from tea producers, people who are operating at origin, who are advancing the specialty tea industry, who are putting out a premium product, or at least it’s aspiring to that.

    We want to know if having this uniform method of evaluation, describing and informing purchases, or providing feedback from different points of the supply chain is useful to them.

    It’s not just testing it with different teas, but with different points in the supply chain. So a lot of work remains to assure that we’ve got as useful and as functional a system as we possibly can.

    The goal is to have something that isn’t sequestered away in one company or one segment of the industry but that is openly teachable, openly learnable, and can be adopted by tea producers, tea professionals, even consumers, the world over.

    Dan: That’s a great mission that you’ve described. This brings to mind a few technical questions. Right now you are evaluating hot tea, not cold brewed tea or variations in the brewing technique, like iced tea, right?

    Andrew: Right. Our evaluation protocol builds on a framework of what’s already been created, existing standards, and what’s already working. We are bringing that to the surface.

    To answer your question directly we’re looking at hot tea. You will find our protocols pretty similar to what’s already established by ISO (International Standards Organization) with some changes in the way that the actual sensory analysis is done along with a formal ballot and procedure for scoring. This is done with hot tea at a pretty strong extraction. Traditional tea evaluation has, on the professional level, seeks to tease out the flaws, push the tea to its edge. That is why the hot extraction we are working with is fairly concentrated.

    Dan: Assessing tea quality using protocols universally accepted by tea buyers and sellers should make it much easier to value transactions.

    Andrew: Yeah, I mean, those producers will get a better price for their tea and that risk of trying to premiumize your line, and improve quality by experiment is going to be rewarded so you’re gonna be recognized.

    That’s the hope.

    We’re doing our best to stand on the shoulders of giants.  We’re paying attention to existing systems of quality evaluation at origin. We’re not trying to redefine how people are judging the quality of their tea as the tea producer, we’re not trying to prescribe what tea is, really, we’re trying to take what’s already there, on a very sophisticated and well-understood level, and just bring that to the surface, bring it into common language, to where it’s understood across the supply chain.

    Once that happens, you solve that issue of asymmetry and information between the buyer and seller at origin and destination. And with that, you can get better quality and a better price for producers. That’s our goal.

    Cupping Set

    Donations of $50 or more will be awarded an official ISTA tea cupping set (while supplies last).

    For delivery outside of the United States, a minimum contribution of $70 is kindly requested to cover additional shipping costs.

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  • Small Scale Mechanization

    Inspired by The Charleston Tea Garden in South Carolina, Jason McDonald decided to plant fields of tea amid the timber on his 289-acre farm in Lincoln County Mississippi where a combination of high heat, humidity, acidic soil, and ample rainfall is ideally suited to tea.

    In 2012 McDonald planted a test plot and made his first tea in 2015. In 2018 the tea garden produced sufficient quantities to begin selling to the public. McDonald has since diligently researched every aspect of the industry, enlisting horticultural, sustainability, manufacturing, and machine professionals to develop harvesting and automated tea processing techniques and the utilization of equipment at small-scale operations.

    “We are striving to modernize an ancient industry with innovation and bring it much closer to home,” he says. The Great Mississippi Tea Company is pioneering modern cultivation, tea science, employment standards, and small-scale mechanization of the harvest for producers in developed countries where the high cost of labor and land has discouraged growers.

    • Caption: Gasoline-powered harvester “plucks” tea selectively, leaving immature shoots and sustenance leaves on the plucking table.
    Hear the interview
    Grower Jason McDonald on the economics of small scale mechanization


    Jason McDonald, Great Mississippi Tea Company
    Jason McDonald operates a model tea farm in Brookhaven, Miss.

    The Economics of Small-Scale Mechanization

    Great Mississippi Tea Company founder/CEO Jason McDonald discusses the economics of mechanical harvesting following a two-year trial of mechanized selective harvesting equipment. There are currently seven acres under tea at his garden with plans to expand to 14 acres. McDonald reports that hand plucking, at $15 per hour costs $43.81 per pound, about $96 per kilo. Using a selective two-person harvester McDonald increased yield and lowered the cost per pound to $6.14, about $13.50 per kilo. McDonald has generously agreed to share his harvest data, labor and production costs. See links below to download.

    Dan Bolton: Can specialty tea growers who focus on quality over quantity rely on mechanical harvesters to deliver leaves suitable for making high-value tea?

    Jason McDonald: Well, I think they can. But we’re going to have to rethink the idea of quality. Commodity leaf can be anything from dust to fanning’s to broken leaf, and then you’ve got the really high end, you know, one leaf, one bud that’s going to command higher prices. I think that the economics are going to favor our specialty mid-grade teas. Those are the ones that pay the bills, and that type of market is really suited for selective harvesters. I think that a selective harvester would be wasted on a CTC (cut, tear, curl) plantation, it also would be wasted attempting to achieve the precision of hand plucking in China. But for the rest of the mid-level specialty teas the specialized selective harvester has worked wonders for us and kept quality up. We recently entered the Australian Tea Masters Golden Leaf Awards and two of the teas that we produced using the Williames harvester scored high enough for a gold medal.

    Our yellow tea was the overall winner for yellow tea, which means that in a blind tasting we scored over 90%. In the hands of a skilled processor who is able to adapt, quality can actually increase and the harvester can also bring the cost of producing the tea down so that it’s affordable for more people.

    Dan: During the past two years, you’ve conducted field trials with a selective mechanical harvester to produce 250 to 350 kilos of made tea.  Will you share with listeners what you have discovered?

    Jason: When we were doing hand plucking, we were on a seven-day rotation and we just couldn’t keep up. It wasn’t about hiring enough people or paying people. We could make it economically feasible to hire people — but when it gets to 110 degrees Fahrenheit in our field in the summer, people just don’t show up, so we were losing yield. We were only getting about 100 pounds of the raw leaf by hand plucking (about 45 kilos a year).

    After using the machine the first year we had almost a 500% increase, and then we had another about 150% increase in year two.

    Our yield blew up because we could keep ahead of the bushes growing. Labor availability plays into the equation too, in an area where you can’t get labor into the fields, a machine with two people using it increased our yield 500%.

    Plucking table before a round with Williames Selective Harvester
    Great Mississippi Tea Company Plucking table before a nine-day round with Williames Selective Harvester
    Plucking table at 39.5 inches after a round using the 1.5 meter gasoline powered two-person selective harvester

    After using the machine the first year we had almost a 500% increase, and then we had another about 150% increase in year two. Our yield blew up because we could keep ahead of the bushes growing.

    – Jason McDonald

    Dan: Will you compare for listeners the cost of manual harvest compared to the cost of operating mechanical harvesters and how it affects your final pricing? I’m curious not only about the cost of harvesting but to prune and skiff, feed, and maintain the seven acres current under tea. Ultimately, what wholesale/retail price is required to recover that expense?

    Jason: It cost roughly $43.81 pound, just for plucking which is about $96 a kilo. Generally, there’s about another $25 to $30 per pound cost for labor in the field. So you’re looking at about $75 a pound or $165 a kilo, just to be able to produce our tea if you’re doing handmade.

    Our retail price is generally between $180 and $240 a pound. So that’s about $396 a kilo, at retail.

    Wholesale is about 30% less. We’re moving everything we can produce at this point through our retail market, so there’s really no incentive for us to wholesale it at these prices. Down the line, when we have lots more coming in, we’re gonna have to figure out wholesale.

    So breakeven is $86 a pound, ($199 a kilo) doing it by hand. You can make money off that even if you’ve only got five or 10 kilos, I guess. But do you really want to spend day-in and day-out working at something that will possibly make $2,000 or $3,000 a year?

    The Williames Selective Tea Plucker allowed us to reduce the cost of plucking from $43.81 pound to $6.14 a pound, that’s roughly $13.50 per kilo.

    All you would need to do is make 400 pounds of tea a year and that would cover the cost of the machine which is about $15,000. So, if you’re producing 400 pounds of tea you’ve got a machine paid for, and the machine doesn’t quit working at that time.

    There’s also the cost of running it, but I think we used less than a gallon of gas the entire summer and you still have to pay someone to walk with the machine. In the US we pay $15 an hour which is a living wage, it’s actually twice the minimum wage in the United States.

    When you’re hand plucking, you’re sorting in the field but with machine harvesting, you’ve got the cost of running the machine, and then you’ve got the cost of sorting tea in the factory.

    There are pieces that are either too small or too large, and you’d have to sort that out. Sorting required an additional 40 minutes of labor to process 10 kilos but that helps in our situation because when it’s really hot outside people would rather be indoors in the air conditioning sorting than sorting in the field.

    I’m talking to investors now about a fully automated whole leaf black tea processing line out of China that’s all run off of an iPad.

    Automating the whole thing to create a wholesale line of black tea could further reduce the cost down to almost $7 a pound for us here in the United States.

    Dan: And what kind of volume would you have?

    Jason: If you wanted to run 24 hours a day, it would be 50 kilos a day. That’s enough capacity to take care of our eventual 14 acres.

    We have to do this. If you can make a profit here with the labor cost and energy costs, and the level of regulation in the United States, you should be able to do it anywhere in the world.

    Tea field worker Sagan King processing green leaf

    • Cost Comparison Slide
    • Harvester Data Worksheet

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  • Mechanical Harvesting

    Nigel Melican is a career research scientist, founder of Teacraft consulting, and President of the European Speciality Tea Association. He has monitored advances in harvesting technology for more than 40 years from crude hand shears and reciprocating blades to the latest generation “selective” harvesters capable of discerning and plucking (not shearing) shoots that consist of two leaves and a bud. Virtually all crops are being mechanically harvested now, explains Melican. Fewer laborers require that mechanization plug the gap. Given the cost and shortage of labor and growth in demand, “There’s no other way that you can make commodity tea commercially viable,” he says.

    • Caption: Nigel Melican in his office in Cloonerra, Strokestown, Republic of Ireland
    Hear the interview
    Teacraft Founder Nigel Melican on mechanical harvesting of tea.


    Globally a majority of large scale tea farms are mechanically harvested. Photo courtesy Kenya Tea Directorate.

    Tea Mechanization Must be Well Managed

    Nigel Melican founded the technology consultancy Teacraft Group 25 years ago to serve all sectors of the tea industry, supplying equipment and machinery world-wide and offering training, and specialist contract research and development. Teacraft, headquartered in the Republic of Ireland, specializes in the more traditional orthodox tea manufacture process and particularly in artisanal and hand-made tea making.

    Dan Bolton: Nigel, why is mechanized tea harvesting here to stay?

    Nigel Melican: I’ve looked at tea harvesting, mechanical harvesting for the last 40 years, I’ve been in tea primarily because I was parachuted into a mechanically harvested tea estate in Papua New Guinea in 1980. It was one of the very few in the world at that time. I knew nothing about tea at that time. I assumed all tea was mechanically harvested.

    Having completed that assignment they said to stop in Sri Lanka on your return leg and see some real tea being harvested. I couldn’t really understand what they meant. In Sri Lanka I realized that tea was not a mechanically harvested crop like wheat, for instance.

    So, I think now that mechanical harvesting is certainly here to stay. There’s no other way that that you can make tea commercially viable anymore. In virtually all agriculture crops are mechanically harvested: wheat, corn, cotton, even grapes are being mechanically harvested.

    The machinery isn’t brought in to displace hand labor. It’s coming in because of labor shortages due to urban drift, in the main. Leaf collectors want their children to be doctors and teachers and accountants, they don’t want them to go into field labor. And rightly so, they aspire for better for their children.

    There is a growing lack of labor and mechanization is coming in to plug that gap. Rural dwellers are fewer now as 55% of the world’s population live in cities. There was a tipping point in 2000 with an estimated four billion people now residing in urban areas. Today 95% of the world’s population lives on 10% of the land.

    Tea mechanization recognizes all of those drivers.

    Without mechanization, you just can’t scale production. So, the simple choice is mechanization or empty tea cups. That is, in a nutshell, why mechanical harvesting is here to stay.

    – Nigel Melican

    Another thing about mechanization is that annual global tea production is 6.3 million metric tons a year. That’s doubled in 20 years from when it was just three million metric tons. Without mechanization, you just can’t get that sort of scale of production, certainly not of commodity tea.

    So, the simple choice is mechanization or empty teacups.

    That is, in a nutshell, why mechanical harvesting is here to stay.

    Dan: Japanese growers invented the first mechanical harvester in 1910 and today some rely entirely on robotics to operate harvesting equipment. In Africa, in contrast, the introduction of mechanical harvesters in 2006 led to union opposition and uprisings in 2010 as workers burned machines. A dozen years later tea workers continue to resist mechanization in Kenyan’s courts but labor lawsuits seeking to ban mechanization ultimately failed on appeal. Is this resistance a reflection of labor-management issues? Can’t workers see they will be paid more as machine operators for doing less physical labor?

    Nigel: I’ve worked in Africa for many, many years, and coming from developed Western society it is sometimes difficult to understand the African way of thinking about life.

    And I think going with that is resistance to change. If you read history, you can see it in the UK during the Industrial Revolution, the Luddites burning looms is exactly the same sort of attitudes that mechanization is destroying the traditional way of living. So, I think a lot of it has to do with that sort of culture and way of thinking way of life.

    Dan: Does mechanized tea harvesting necessarily mean lower quality tea?

    Nigel: With the machines that we have nowadays, it’s difficult to get a level of harvest that you can get from a skilled plucker. Having said that, the overall quality of tea being plucked is going down and has been going down for the last 40 years. The iconic 100% two leaves and a bud pluck is a dream that some planters still have at the back of their mind or sometimes in the front of their mind… and 100% two leaves and the bud plucking is possible, but it’s slow, it’s slow.

    And when you were paying only $1 a day, it was achievable. Now pluckers are still poorly paid, but in Sri Lanka, your labor is $5 a day. So, you have to pluck faster, harder, which means a coarser leaf.

    Hand plucking is no longer achieving 100% two leaves and the bud, it’s achieving at best about 80% two leaves and the bud and more typically 60%. So, most of the commodity tea is being plucked with about 60% of the day’s harvest as two leaves.

    A mechanical reciprocating blade harvesting machine can do about the same as a moderately skilled plucker and reciprocating blade harvesting can be done better than it’s being done now, first by not pushing the machinery so hard and second, by not pushing the people carrying the machinery so hard. We can expect improvements in terms of quality where quality is required by encouraging workers to make a better job of it.

    Mechanical harvesting, when properly managed, can achieve the lower level of quality the is expected of a plucker nowadays. Since the mass production of commodity tea bag tea is predicated on volume production, to keep their companies running producers have to be going for the cheapest tea possible, at the highest volume. Mechanical harvesting is a route to doing that.

    When you are a volume producer you have to cut corners and one of the corners that is cut is quality. Virtually all the commodity tea goes to supermarkets that have a fixed price policy, they don’t like to see prices of their loss-leading commodity range going up. So black tea pricing is pretty inelastic. When you have steadily increased costs of production and very little ability to get an increased price, something has to give. To trim the margin, producers go for volume, and volume means less quality. So that’s what’s happening out there with mechanical harvesting at the moment.

    Now, you should be asking ‘well, is it possible to achieve quality with a machine?’

    Yes, it’s possible to do better.

    Dan: Harkirat (Harki) Sidhu in a previous podcast acknowledges the limitations of reciprocal harvesters but makes the point that machines allow producers to more efficiently allocate labor. There is a 75% savings in person-days using mechanical harvesters, according to Sidhu. The additional hours are sufficient to increase rounds to prevent overgrowth and to better care for the plants while maintaining the equipment. Additional labor hours gained might also enable growers to produce more labor-intensive high-margin specialty teas.

    Nigel: Yeah, yeah. He put his finger on it, it’s about improving management. If we think about how mechanization will improve things in the future that’s one of the things which must improve.

    You’ll often find people complain that as soon as you bring in machines, the yield goes down. Yeah, of course, it does. Because they bring it in in a wrong way.

    The machine does it totally different from the plucker. The plucker chooses the mature shoots and leaves and avoids the immature shoots. The machine goes zoom right across and takes everything. Then you have to wait 21 days for it all to grow up again. Intermittent use of machines to occasionally fill gaps in labor availability inevitably reduces yield. However, the plucking table will equilibrate if you keep on mechanically harvesting as the Japanese producers have found.

    If I had an estate, I would be running it on that well-managed basis. But most people managing big estates recognize that conglomerates have simple ways of thinking about things. And if they were going for commodity volume tea, the plantation owners don’t want people messing with speciality tea.

    And similarly, people who are committed to speciality tea are often somewhat elitist. I mean, and I say this as the president of the European Speciality Tea Association, that they have a purist view of what speciality tea is. Ultimately, there is a continuum between very poor commodity tea at the bottom and very expensive premium tea at the top.

    I would not want to make all my money from one end or the other end. I would try to do both on my estate; to optimize conditions on my best land or highest land or the land which gave the sweetest flavor and manage the rest to yield more everyday tea.

    In many parts of China at the spring flush, the families all come back to the farm. People who’ve gone off to work in the computer component factories and Christmas tree ornament factories — they bring them all back and they all harvest the first flush by hand as that is the one which really makes the money, the $1,000 a kilo to $5,000 a kilo tea.

    Then the middle flush, which is the green tea that everyone drinks every day, is harvested by machine as is the final autumn flush; this is really rough stuff that’s harvested for black tea, which goes into instant tea, and they flog that to America.

    So, they have covered all the bases very cleverly. And anyone who’s been to China will know how clever they are at looking at a problem and working out ways to solve it.

    That’s the way that you can manage your tea on an estate, but as I say, most people don’t want to work that way. They want to be all one or the other.

    Dan: Harvester manufacturers have been innovating for 100 years. Going forward, what improvements can we expect?

    Nigel: The first innovation in mechanical harvesting in my lifetime is the Australian selective mechanical harvester, which is a machine that discriminates between the bud and the immature and the mature shoot, and only plucks the mature shoot and ignores the immature shoots. It simulates plucking, exerting the same pressure between the thumb and finger that a plucker will use.

    That is a totally new way of looking at tea harvesting. And it can do it as well as a skilled plucker.

    Dan: What’s your capital investment to put a machine like that in the field?

    Nigel: Until it gets into real production, it will be expensive. But currently, I think they’re selling at around $15,000 for a one-and-a-half-meter wide machine.

    Compared with the two-person harvester used in India or in Africa, it’s going to be about 10 or 15 times more expensive.

    This machine can harvest at the quality which exceeds the average plucker. And it can do it almost five times as fast. And with about 1/6 of the labor cost. So even though it’s an expensive investment, it works for speciality tea. Now, I don’t think it’s gonna work as well for commodity tea. Right? A supermarket tea blend doesn’t justify that sort of level of plucking anyway.

    The Selective Tea Harvester manufactured by Williames Tea in Victoria, Australia, sells for $14,950 (head only)
    The rotating 1.5-meter head “plucks” shoots, omitting sustenance leaves and immature shoots.

    Nigel: When I was a child, I remember wheat grew four feet high. And now it’s 18 inches high. Right? Because the plant breeders got in on the act. The combine manufacturers complained that the wheat was lodging in the cutter due to the length of the stalk. So the breeders developed wheat with short straw. Not only was it easier to harvest, but the short straw meant that more of the plant’s energy went into the ear rather than into the stalk, increasing yield by 25%. So, it was a win-win.

    I think that the tea bush can be completely restructured. In the future, we’ll be seeing improvements to the plant shape, the plant architecture. This is a slow job with a perennial crop because the breeding cycle for one improvement takes about 20 years for tea plants, whereas with an annual crop there’s only one season. So it’s a much slower job. The architecture of a tea bush is a tall tree and we brought it down to a three-foot bush. So yes, there will be improvements in the machines, there will be improvements in the bush architecture. And there will be improvements in management.


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  • Q|A Mary Cotterman

    Mary Cotterman was 12 when she learned to throw clay on a potter’s wheel. In the decades since, that wheel has never stopped spinning for this accomplished teaware artisan.  She describes the foundation of her work as functionality, “because for me, no matter how it looks, if I’m making a piece of teaware it needs to be a precise tool for pouring tea, so a lot of my design I take from traditional Chinese vessels, but I have learned small techniques and vernacular from all over.”

    • Caption: Mary Cotterman turning a teapot lid at her studio in Asheville, North Carolina
    Hear the interview
    Mary Cotterman on crafting teaware in the US and state of mind of artisans embracing native clay.


    Mary Cotterman at home. COVID kept her away from the clay but her fans remain loyal and supportive.

    Teaware Born from Native Mud

    In 2015 Cotterman moved to China to learn from the old masters how to pour Chaozhou Gongfu at the Ming de Yuan production studio and to speak Mandarin. She spent two years there learning Cha Yi (tea arts) from a master in the Beijing school, becoming the first westerner to throw shou la hu teapots. She next studied at the San Bao International Ceramics Village in Jingdezhen, the home of porcelain for 1700 years. Her residency included helping run a gallery, curating shows, and translating for international artists.

    In 2018 she returned to the United States after a long sojourn across Europe. She makes her home in Asheville, North Carolina where you will find her crafting water jars, pitchers, teacups, celadon gaiwans, and ash-glazed Japanese-style Kyusu teapots in a wood-fired kiln. By day she forages for local plants, studies traditional folkways and earth-based practices.

    Dan Bolton: Your arrival in Asheville anchors the western end of a bridge that spans Europe and leads to ancient China where you spent several years learning Gongfu Cha style pottery and to speak the native language of porcelain and Yixing clay. Will you describe for listeners the state of artisan teaware in the US?

    Mary Cotterman: Teaware in the US is a reflection of the amalgamation of different traditions from throughout the world, wherever tea goes, it creates its own unique culture based on how the people in the region live. In the US we’ve got the British teaware, a lot of us ceramicist make teaware and teapots in that style.

    I don’t. I specialize in small Chinese teapots.

    Cotterman throwing a teapot body. Photo courtesy Mary Cotterman Pottery.

    As the tea community gets more educated and broadens, people are getting excited about teaware from different places. So, Gong Fu Cha, the Chinese tea service is becoming quite popular in the United States and throughout the world.

    To me, it’s a really lovely experience pouring tea in this way because it lends an aspect of ritual to people’s lives that I think we miss a lot in our quotidian daily lives because we’re rushing to and fro.

    The Chinese tea service invokes this sense of process and ritual.

    I also make Japanese-style Kyusu pots, which are side-handled teapots with big openings. They’re typically used for green tea so a lot of steam needs to be able to escape the opening. You don’t want your pot getting too hot.

    As people get familiarized with the different styles of tea and regions, they’re starting to collect teaware from all over.

    Dan: On your website you mention that every vessel contains the wisdom you absorbed from around the world.  How do you see the wisdom manifest in your work?

    Mary: That is a good question. The foundation is functionality, because for me, no matter how it looks, if I’m making a piece of teaware it needs to be a precise tool for pouring tea, so a lot of my design I take from traditional Chinese vessels, but I have learned small techniques and vernacular styles from all over.

    I’ve been doing wood firing recently, which is a really magical process, very labor-intensive. That style of wood ash glaze was taken to its height in Japan. It’s done all over the world. But the particular long firings in very hot kilns for the buildup of wood ash to create this really natural glaze is a long-standing Japanese tradition.

    I think of lineage a lot as a craftsperson. There’s a gift that you’re given by your teachers especially with pottery. It’s difficult, and it’s a steep learning curve, and you can practice for many, many, many years and still not be an expert.

    I think of lineage a lot as a craftsperson. There’s a gift that you’re given by your teachers especially with pottery. It’s difficult, and it’s a steep learning curve, and you can practice for many, many, many years and still not be an expert.

    – Mary Cotterman

    Dan: Will you describe the artisan spirit and state of mind of those embracing native clay to make teapots and teaware in the US and elsewhere?

    Mary: This is an interesting area of exploration because it is at once new in that we’re trying to be more ecologically friendly and our artists and practices, we’re trying to be climate-conscious in our practices so that we can continue making pottery, as humanity always has, but it is also something that is historical.

    Throughout the world’s pottery, artisans gather around natural sources of clay. And each source of clay has its own life story. Yixing clay is very touted and it’s incredible, and it’s very good for what it is, but it is not special in its uniqueness. Every native clay has unique properties based on its life story, the mineral composition, and what bacteria is in the soil will affect how it can be worked.

    Native clay is integral to pottery itself. Finding that relationship between the Earth and us between the life story of the clay began on the top of the mountain, rocks eroded over millions of years added plant material and bacteria, and then it gets deposited in a place where you can go and dig it.

    There are many ways you can use this in the process; you can make things out of native clay, and you can also use them as slips or decorating or crush up rocks to use in glazes. It’s really all about coming back to the origins while also looking forward to a sustainable practice.

    Lotus San Jian Tao, traditional vessels for Chaozhou Gongfu Tea created from North Carolina wild clay

    Wheel thrown from North Carolina wild clay, the rims are cut, then the interior is coated in white slip.

    Dan: Asheville is a thriving community of artists. How has covid impacted the arts community there in general and you as a tea artisan.

    Mary: The shift to lockdown personally wasn’t huge because I’m already kind of a hermit. It’s mostly just me in the clay all day, which continued throughout COVID.

    Our studio, which is a big warehouse, subdivided into different studios, was shut down formonths, Not being able to get my hands on play was pretty tough. It’s a deep source of grounding and a spiritual connection did for me So that part was hard.

    Once our studio opened back up, in the summer of 2020, it was pretty normal. My sales, thankfully, were doing pretty well.

    I think people getting stimulus checks in the US were putting those to good use.

    I haven’t met most of you, but you’re all online all over the world, and really just showed up for the small businesses in the tea community in a really inspiring way.

    As far as the tea places everyone shifted, I think everyone sort of had to suddenly become more online and do different things like subscription services, and, you know, selling more loose tea. I know, for some of those sit-down businesses, it was quite rough, but I think everybody made it to the downhill side intact from the tea businesses that I know.

    As a creative person, it was really nice to have the social pressure taken off, because I have some social anxiety, and so being social definitely takes a lot of energy for me.

    During COVID, I went into a monk-like creative state because all I was doing was staying at home with my dog and my sweetheart and then sort of meditating for hours on end in the studio, silent and almost nobody else in there.

    It was a really lovely time where the whole world slowed down like I feel when I’m working late at night in the studio, and I could just tune in and listen deeply to the craft.


    Mary Cotterman on the GONG FU CHA’dcast

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  • Frugal Innovation

    There are few entry barriers to tea. It does not demand heavy infrastructure. But the complaint from smallholders selling raw leaf to large-scale tea producers operating multiple factories is that for the past decade, farmgate prices are not commensurate with costs. Now the economics of the tea trade is gradually shifting from oversupply to scarcity. At the same time, some quiet work underway in India is yielding encouraging results that lower the cost of tea production, improve quality, and ease a shortage of labor. The most powerful driver for change is revenue. Prices globally, on average, increased by $0.21 cents per kilo during 2021, according to Trading Economics. Abhijeet Hazarika, IT analyst @TeaSigma and former head of process innovation at Tata Global Beverages, observed that “Tea is not a very high profit yielding commodity and will not be so in the foreseeable future until some tech breakthrough happens.” The frugal innovations described in this series, combined with higher prices may herald that breakthrough.

    • Caption: Shekib Ahmed at Koliabur Tea Estate in Assam
    Hear the interview (Part 2)
    Abhijeet Hazarika and Shekib Ahmed on frugal innovations that scale

    Tea bushes ready for a plucking round at Koliabur Tea Estate, Assam, India

    Embracing Simple Technology with Scalable Impact

    By Aravinda Anantharaman

    Frugal innovations utilize simple technology to address some of the most vexing challenges facing the tea industry. It’s an umbrella term for innovations that do not require much capital, carry a low financial risk and can be done safely with high reliability. Abhijeet Hazarika, former head of process innovation at Tata Global Beverages, describes several innovations that have moved from the drawing board to become successful pilots at partner estates. In Part 1, Aravinda Anantharaman looked at frugal innovation in buying and selling tea. In Part 2, she explores the application of frugal innovations in the tea garden.

    Shekib Ahmed of Koliabur Tea Estate in Assam talks about experimenting with frugal innovations in the field, but it’s in the factory, he says, that these simple technologies show the biggest impact.

    “With data,” says Ahmed, “I have an objective source of attention to detail. I don’t have to depend on someone who has been working in the industry for 40 years, who uses his expertise and muscle memory to guide us. I have objective data. And that really helps me change the conversation in the factory. I’m not talking of vague concepts. I’m talking about numbers. I’m saying, this is the parameter that we want, and we must keep it within this threshold. It makes it scientific.

    “What happens is that even the youngest boy or girl who’s joining as an executive, he or she can pick it up very quickly. She doesn’t have to be there for 20 years. Now, we have a young lady in one of our factories in Dubba. She’s running a 12-hour shift by herself and it’s just data. She has the data. She knows that we must stay within these parameters for the quality to be good.

    “She’s in her 30s. Normally, guys running factories at that level, are in their late 50s and 60s, because you need to have that much experience. But if we can objectify data, we can have younger blood come in quickly. They are also not operating blind. I’m not just telling them, make good tea. I’m telling them this machine should be running from this much to this much. The sensor will inform you whether you are in that range. In our shared platforms, we have a cloud-based platform where we share the data, and we keep verifying it. There are many little things in production where we were operating blind and now, we have a certain level of clarity so that really helps us improve.”

    Ahmed meters temperatures in the factory. Incidentally, this was developed by a young boy at a cost that Hazarika only will say, “is laughable”. Three machines are ready, and one of them is at Ahmed’s factory. Attention to detail, which was once subjective, has now become scientific and objective, says Ahmed. He likens processing tea to cooking, and how by tweaking the temperatures and the RPM of machines, the quality of tea changes exponentially. These innovations are sensor-based, that are already in use in other industries. Ahmed reminds me that the color sorters in orthodox tea production were derived from rice sorters.

    Saurav Berlia with visitors at LR Group’s Dooars estate.

    And finally, innovation in the field

    During our conversation, Hazarika discusses people, welfare, and productivity. Speaking on low productivity, he says, it’s not because people are shying away from work but because of the nature of the work.

    Hazarika says “There are times when I stand in the gardens in August, and it is so hot that I could not stand more than 45 minutes to an hour before I felt unwell. But these people do it day in day out. It’s difficult and I don’t think anybody talks about this. So much hype about the romance of the woman carrying the bags, how many realize what goes on in that case, it’s like a furnace!”

    We talk about harvesters. Most of the harvesting machines, he explains, are handheld machines and they tend to be noisy and heavy to carry. Therefore, men are assigned the machines. Not only is it tiring but it’s hard to keep one’s hands steady with them. This means that the quality of the plucking is not very good. Terrain poses another challenge for harvesters even in Assam’s valleys, where it is an uneven terrain. This challenge is amplified in the hills. Hazarika talks about harvesters not as a means to increase quantity but to aid quality.

    He is looking at two major deliverables. One, the quality of the finely plucked should be at least 5x better than what is plucked by current machines and at least 2x better than what has been plucked by hand. Two, pest controls. The cost of pest and disease control is significant, especially where there are large areas to monitor, which is the case with estates that span many hectares. Pests can spread within two to three days offering a very small window to arrest their spread. An early warning system, says Shekib, can make an enormous difference. However, this seems to be a mammoth task — perhaps the most challenging space to build innovation — because, for every pest, Hazarika says, a year’s worth of data needs to be collected to feed the algorithms.

    Nowhere does the conversation turn to machines replacing people. Instead, the conversation repeatedly brings up utilizing labor effectively to increase output but with better quality.

    “I think the tea industry supply chain is completely out of sync with the way modern supply chains work. There is no concept of made-to-order.”

    – Abhijeet Hazarika

    From ‘make to stock’ to ‘make to order’

    Ultimately, it comes down to the perennial problem of oversupply and reduced demand, and the mad scramble for markets. Indian tea producers do not make to order but make to stock, their priority is to sell. And the circle that begins with variability in the quality of tea closes with variability in price realization. Made-to-order brings other advantages, as it is collaborative and brings both technical and technological inputs as part of the process.

    “I think the tea industry supply chain is completely out of sync with the way modern supply chains work,” says Hazarika. “There is no concept of made-to-order. They will say forward contracts are made to order. I beg to disagree because, when you say I will take a tea from you, I mean I will take a tea off a particular quality from you. The guy who’s making the tea, in many cases, is not even aware of what you want. So, the buyer has permission to reject it.”

    “One of the most important aspects of made-to-order is to leverage the unique aspects of an estate of the factory that has consumer value. Somebody might make tea that makes good color which is preferred in Maharashtra or some may make tea with a sweet after taste which the Gujaratis like. We need to be able to treat every garden as unique and not as a commodity.”

    While this is a familiar story, of not treating tea as a commodity, Hazarika offers a roadmap of sorts that is possible with frugal innovation. Once you have quality specifications, a producer can do real-time monitoring during manufacturing. All the resources are focused on producing only what meets the specs. This in turn optimizes the cost of production and increases the likelihood of the customer buying it because it’s been made to their specs.

    Which brings the conversation to buyers because the change has to begin with them. If the large tea buyers are procuring 1,000 mn kilos of tea a year, assuming an average estate produces 1 mn kilos of tea, that’s 1,400 estates that can cater to one single buyer. Change can begin with one single buyer.

    Frugal Innovators from left, Ratan Ghosh, Bappa Dutta, Mr. Sakil, Nayan Sarkar, SN Singh, Jamil Aktar, Prasenjit Mandal, and Sohag Mandal. Photo courtesy LR Group.

    Saurav Berlia talks about how he is piloting the make-to-order model. He has partnered with a buyer who has agreed to buy his tea at a higher-than-average price. In return, Berlia assures the buyer will receive:

    • – quality (achieved by managing the parameters while processing in the factory)
    • – consistency (ensured by recording data such as temperature, moisture levels)
    • – safety (being done by educating growers on chemical usage and monitoring it)

    There may not be certifications here, but data is being recorded digitally and analyzed. For those who have wondered about the alternative to expensive certifications, this may well be it. Because the proof is there for anyone to see.

    Ahmed talks about how the conversations are changing, becoming more specific. It’s helping him build a young team who are learning, not averse to technology, and who are razor-focused on quality. Innovation, he says, is no longer just for multinationals but for everyone.

    “The only way I can do something better than the much larger tea garden groups is if I can execute innovation quickly and if I can execute quality improvement better and in the most cost way,” says Ahmed. And that can only happen with teamwork.

    The larger outcome is more significant. Frugal innovation will change the way the industry is run. It will no longer be about waiting for an executive to invest 30-40 years in the factory to be relied upon to run it. Frugal innovation can bring effective processes into play in a way that someone young can be trained early on. This is important in a state like Assam where migration is extremely high and the intellectually able who leave don’t return.

    The work on frugal innovation is being made possible by harnessing vast industry experience, a wide network, and an active collaboration with academia. Support and partnerships have come from major tea buyers. The possibilities where tech can play are vast and are seen by both Ahmed and Berlia as the way forward.

    “Come in with an open mind,” advises Ahmed. It requires a willingness to try piloting the various options. And because these innovations are frugal by design, it’s affordable even for small growers and small gardens. Berlia confesses that he didn’t buy into it readily but the potential to earn a better price for the tea was a strong pull. Within a month, he says, he could tell it was working and he’s since been advocating it.

    For an industry that’s been grappling with multiple challenges, frugal innovation is a low-risk and impactful option, spearheaded by an industry veteran with an eye for innovation. For every successful experiment, there are many that fail, but these are essential to the process that begins with the question, “What if…?”

    Those interested in pilot projects can contact [email protected]


    Hear the full interview (Parts 1 & 2)
    Abhijeet Hazarika and Shekib Ahmed on frugal innovations that scale

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