The tradition of drinking tea, herbal infusions, and spiced beverages during the holiday season has evolved from medieval medicinal remedies to sophisticated and cherished modern holiday customs, reflecting centuries of cultural exchange, religious symbolism, and festive cheer.
Who better to describe this history than our guest today, Santa Claus? Jolly old St. Nicholas recounts the nearly two-thousand-year evolution of holiday beverages.
The History of Tea at Christmas | Santa is reading the Travels of Marco Polo
The Spirit of Christmas
By Jolly Old St. Nick
My first memories are of a magnificent seaside home on the Island of Lycia [LIE see-uh], in a place now called Türkiye [TOOR kee yeh]. It was then the land of the Greeks, who were under the rule of Rome.
Patara [PAH tah rah] was a maritime city, a city of commerce, and the capital of Lycia, [LIE see-uh] distant by road from Athens but close by sea.
Tea was unknown where I lived. In those times, we drank chilled juice, milk with honey, and wine diluted with water, all handed down from Alexander the Great, who conquered Lycia 300 years before the Christian era.
I was born to luxury but cursed by my parents’ early deaths in the plague.
Left with great riches, I devoted myself to Christianity from an early age and vowed to spend my wealth on the needy and disadvantaged children of every class. An acolyte with great religious vigor, I was sent to Myra, where, in time, I was elected bishop. Persecuted and imprisoned for years until freed by Emperor Constantine, I survived to perform miracles, rescue the innocent, protect children, and care for others with generosity.
Sainthood followed my passing in December 343 AD. I became St. Nicholas, San Nicola, and over time, Noel Baba (Türkiye), Kris Kringle, Sinterklaas, Papa Noel, Grandfather Frost (Russia), and in Italy, [BAH boh nah TAH leh] Babbo Natale (Father Christmas).
For 1,754 years, I have been the spirit of Christmas, overseeing the annual winter celebrations with joy.
Here is a brief history of what I’ve seen.
MEDIEVAL CELEBRATIONS
Five hundred years after Roman times had passed, St. Nicholas Day had become a major feast in Europe, where children received small gifts in my honor. Tea was unknown in Europe during his time, but herbal infusions made from local plants like mint, sage, and rosemary were commonly consumed during winter feasts. These herbs were valued for their warming and medicinal properties.
MONASTIC INFLUENCE
Monasteries were centers of herbal knowledge. Monks cultivated herbs such as chamomile, fennel, and mint and used them to make soothing infusions. During Christmas feasts, these drinks were offered to pilgrims and the poor as a symbol of hospitality and charity.
DURING THE MIDDLE AGES
As trade routes expanded, Europeans were introduced to exotic spices like cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. These spices were brewed into hot beverages such as “wassail,” a spiced cider, or ale consumed during Christmas festivities and communal gatherings. The word is from an Old English greeting, “waes hael” [WAH sul], meaning to “be whole” or “be in good health.”
MULLED WINE
In the late Middle Ages, mulled wine emerged as the forerunner of holiday drinks. Called [HIH-puh-kras] “hypocras.” Named for Hippocrates, it became a popular celebratory drink, often served warm with honey and spices.
DUTCH INFLUENCE
Dutch and Portuguese traders introduced tea to Europe in the early 17th century. By the late 1600s, it became a fashionable beverage in aristocratic circles and eventually influenced holiday gatherings. The Dutch celebrated Sinterklaas, who wears a red bishop’s robe, miter, and staff with a long white beard and visits on December 5 (the eve of St. Nicholas). Children left their shoes by the fireplace or windowsill and awakened to find treats such as oranges and candy if they’ve been good. Dutch settlers brought Santa Claus to New Amsterdam (New York), where Washington Irving, Clement Clarke Moore, and Thomas Nast established Santa’s modern appearance, arrival by sleigh and home at the North Pole.
EARLY MODERN PERIOD
In Britain and its colonies, including America, tea-drinking rituals became an essential part of social and holiday celebrations. Unique blends with spices, fruits, and herbs were prepared for Christmas and New Year’s feasts. By the 1830s, tea had spawned its own afternoon meal.
VICTORIAN ERA
The Victorians, inspired by Charles Dickens’s depictions of Christmas, embraced tea drinking as a central part of holiday gatherings. Tea rooms and homes served holiday blends featuring cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, and vanilla. Herbal infusions like spiced apple cider and cranberry tea gained popularity due to their warming properties and festive flavors. Historian Erika Rappaport writes that thousands would gather in great halls to take tea, organized by Temperance reformers who taught that “by drinking tea instead of alcohol, consumers would achieve class and gender harmony, political citizenship, and a heavenly home.”
IN MODERN TIMES
Tea companies began producing special holiday-themed teas, blending black tea with festive spices, dried fruits, and floral notes. Herbal teas such as peppermint, ginger, and rooibos are particularly popular in winter. Many cultures preserved traditional herbal infusions associated with the holidays, including Scandinavian glögg and South American yerba mate.
Santa’s legacy has endured for centuries through charitable giving, holiday traditions, and the enduring spirit of kindness and generosity that defines the Christmas Season.
Less well-known is my fondness for tea.
Thomas Nash portrait of St. Nick | 1881 Harper’s Weekly
The Republic of Tea’s Minister of Enlightenment and Commerce, Kristina Tucker, discusses how the California-based brand cleverly transformed an unconscious beverage habit into a mindful lifestyle choice. Citizens (customers) of the Republic share a sense of mindfulness and practice self-care rituals, brewing a range of more than 350 teas and herbal infusions. Conceived by Banana Republic founders Mel and Patricia Ziegler in 1992 and nurtured by CEO Will Rosenzweig, the company sources exceptional teas from multiple origins. It markets traditional, functional, and beautifying infusions with a holistic narrative that tea is a gateway to healthier, more intentional living. The Republic of Tea is a pioneer in specialty tea and was founded on the idea that a tea brand could inspire a lifestyle of intentional living, embodying tranquility, creativity, and personal well-being.
Listen to her story
The Republic of Tea Minister of Enlightenment and Commerce Kristina Tucker
Kristina Tucker, Minister of Enlightenment and Commerce, visiting Uji, Japan
Inspiring a Lifestyle of Intentional Living
By Dan Bolton
As vice president of sales and communications for The Republic of Tea, Kristina Tucker believes in the beauty and power of the leaf. Her mission is to educate and inspire people worldwide about teas and herbs: their varieties, origins, rituals, cultures, and health benefits. She joined The Republic of Tea in 2003 and was named Minister of Enlightenment in 2007. Before that, she was the national sales manager at Just Desserts and worked as the promotions manager at Whole Foods Market’s Allegro Coffee Company in Boulder, Colo. She is the current chair of the board of trustees of the American Herbal Products Association. Tucker holds a degree in economics from Alfred Lerner College of Business & Economics at the University of Delaware and a master’s in strategic communication from the American University School of Communication.
Dan: The Republic of Tea first articulated its commitment to ethical sourcing, fair labor practices, reducing waste, rejuvenating land, and sustainable cultivation over thirty years ago. Advocating a daily tea ritual to drink tea Sip by Sip Rather Than Gulp by Gulp resonated with consumers, who were pleased to find more from a tea brand than attractive tins and eco-friendly messaging. Will you describe how that advocacy evolved?
Kristina: We’re so fortunate at the Republic of Tea that the brand’s concept is in a book called The Republic of Tea, which Mel Patricia Ziegler and Bill Rosenzweig wrote in the early 90s. All the ideas are captured in this book, so we can always refer back to it for inspiration and go back to where it began and then infused all of us.
The Republic of Tea book was first published in 1992
Dan: Author Simon Sinek, in START WITH WHY, discusses the importance of companies establishing they exist. Sinek argues that people are drawn not to what an organization does but to why it does it. This approach builds deeper loyalty and trust. During a lengthy correspondence, The Republic of Tea’s founders applied this approach, describing the process in a 355-page book of letters to a young entrepreneur. The book details ‘What we want The Republic of Tea to be, ‘ the values they aspire to, and the steps necessary to realize their vision. Will you talk a little about convincing millions of consumers to emigrate to the Republic?
Kristina: Well, of course, it all starts with great taste. You know, all these different varieties, all this innovation is all about delivering on that promise, that it’s going to taste amazing, and then we work from there. Part of that taste experience is the philosophy and lifestyle that we emphasize. It begins there, and then it expands.
We created The Republic of Tea so that people can emigrate and become a citizen. And this whimsy, this idea that you’ve immigrated to a special place that the tea takes you to, and that helps you have this lifestyle of well-being, is really quite magical and fun. And yes, at times, it might be a little bit of a stretch for some, but when you embrace it, it becomes part of your whole experience. And that’s our promise to deliver that great taste experience as part of being a citizen.
Dan: In the last few years, we’ve seen the word botanicals or infusions attached to several former “tea” companies. As you developed your concept, you did not signal, “We are Camellia sinensis and nothing else.” Instead, you promoted a range of infusions, herbal blends, and green tea. The Republic of Tea, for example, was always big on green tea. Talk about why infusions are now a thing.
Kristina: We think of it this way. All these magical plants, Camellia sinensis to chamomile to hibiscus to ginseng – you name it- all of these plants, herbs, shrubs, and roots come together and unite in the blends we make at the Republic of Tea.
We have over 350 varieties of teas and herbs, including botanicals blended with Camellia sinensis and traditional black and green tea.
So it’s just being innovative and creative, not being afraid. We take a lot of risks. We import from over 80 countries now, so we play with all the different ingredients all the time.
When it comes to trends, we really listen to our citizens. They often tell us what they’re looking for in herbal infusions and botanicals. Some are looking for functions.
We started blending with more herbs right from the beginning, but then, in 2006, we expanded into our Be Well collection, so we started working more with function with our beautifying botanicals, which we launched a few years back. We played with blue butterfly pea flowers and different white hibiscus. Then we launched our super adapt collection, using ashwagandha, rhodiola, and some of these wonderful adaptogenic herbs.
We have a collection of our super herbs, our single herbs of origin that are all organic, premium, best in class, and different herbals, like Egyptian hibiscus or South African Green Rooibos. We are always looking again for the best flavor in the cup.
Daisy and Mrs. Patmore’s TeaGrantham’s English Breakfast TeaLady Cora’s Evening Tea
Dan: TV audiences monitor every detail on series like Downton Abbey and Bridgerton, and Tea enthusiasts like to chat about what Lady Mary or Violet Crawley are drinking or the beautiful silver service polished in the kitchen.
The Republic of Tea brought fantasy to life with a Downton Abbey line that includes eight teas, gift sets, a recipe journal, seven Bridgerton teas, and the Official Bridgerton Guide to Entertaining.
Kristina: Well, let me go back even further than that…
It started with Memoirs of a Geisha, our first collaboration in 2005. We know people like to enjoy tea when they’re reading or watching a series like Downton Abbey or Bridgerton, so that’s where the connection begins.
We had success with Memoirs of a Geisha, but these partnerships really blossomed with the movie Eat, Pray, Love in 2010. That was really fun. We used black tea inspired by the Hari Mandir Ashram in Pataudi, Haryana, where the Indian scenes were filmed, cinnamon from Indonesia, and blood orange from Italy. These origins and their distinctive flavors are integrated with the story, and the idea of creating blends matched to characters started to come together.
The blends are collaborative. So, we’re working with the respective Netflix, Disney, or BBC creatives. We all taste teas together and talk about the characters and what they would drink or what symbolizes that character, and it blossoms from there. They’re so much fun to work on, and these blends really connect with the citizens.
We still see great sales of the Downton Abbey collection and Bridgerton. I don’t think we’ll ever be able to let those go.
Pumpkin Pie Chai and Pumpkin Spice Chai
Dan: You regularly introduce seasonal favorites and limited-time offers as well.
Kristina: Yes, we are in tea-drinking season, and the fall flavors are just a thrill. We have our iconic hot apple cider, our top seller year in and year out for our fall teas. We also have a new Pumpkin Pie Chai that we launched this year. It’s made with interesting ingredients. We’ve got cinnamon, ginger, pumpkin, and nutmeg, all standards, of course, but there’s also roasted dandelion root in here, which makes this blend so well-rounded. It has a sister, Apple Pie Chai.
Dan: Many young people now drink tea and infusions. A study by GlobalData highlighted that tea consumption trends among younger generations, particularly Millennials and Gen Z, are reshaping the market. Around 87% of Millennials report regular tea consumption, which has been integrated into daily life for many in Gen Z. Are you focused on a specific demographic? Which generations are more likely to become citizens (regular consumers)?
Kristina: We appeal to multiple demographics across all ages, but we continue to see the awareness of different taste profiles from a younger demographic. Millennials, Gen Z, are certainly looking for The Republic of Tea to bring that innovation, that one thing that they might be looking for, whether it’s an ingredient, the new functional herb, or just the creative combinations that we come up with.
Some of our blends have quite a few different ingredients. And that kind of creativity, that surprise, delight various demographics. I often hear people say, Oh, my mom drank The Republic of Tea, and that’s how I found it. So, I think we’re seeing part of it within families. We often hear how special our fall and holiday flavors are this time of the year because people have traditions like sipping our Comfort and Joy blend when wrapping Christmas presents. Others mention certain teas they drink as a family when watching movies. So we hear a lot of that, where we’re spanning multiple generations.
Holiday selection with Tablespoon Peppermint Bark tea concentrate
Dan: How about the beautifying botanicals category or the super herbs? Are these popular with women?
Kristina: Yes. We find that the vast majority of people who are drinking beautifying botanicals are women in the 30, 40, and 50-year range. Okay, but it’s certainly not exclusive to that group. In some of our research, we have found that we over-index relative to other tea brands with male tea drinkers.
Dan: Which teas are most popular with men?
Kristina: We see it with our black teas but also with our functional herbs.
Dan: Research indicates that young people begin showing a preference for tea during adolescence, although exact ages can vary based on cultural and regional influences. At what age do you notice consumers becoming fans of the brand?
Kristina: We have high school students who are avid citizens of The Republic of Tea, creating tea clubs at their schools. Also, college students get together and pick our tea for their club. We’ve always aspired to be something for every man, woman, and child, to find something in the assortment.
Comfort and Joy black tea with spicesCollagen promoting blue butterfly pea flower teaDouble Green Matcha Tea
Dan: Three hundred fifty teas is a wide range. I’m going to guess 10% to 20% are traditional teas; almost everything else is blended.
Kristina: You’re right about that.
Dan: So blends dominate, which means changing preferences, trending flavors, and availability of ingredients make it likely many will come and go, often in a short period of time. Will you name two or three all-time best sellers that have become iconic and associated with the company’s history and tradition?
Kristina: The most iconic at The Republic of Tea is our Ginger Peach Black Tea. But iconic is more than just flavors. Our tin packaging is truly significant, so it starts there. Our Ginger Peach black tea is one of the originals. Other iconic blends from the very beginning, from 1992, would be Blackberry Sage Black tea and Chamomile Lemon, another of the first blends.
I need to mention our organic Double Green Matcha. It’s really innovative. We blend matcha powder and green tea leaves together and put them into our signature round bleached paper tea bag. That tea has been a top seller since we launched Double Green Matcha in 2007.
Ginger Peach Black Tea
Those three have been in the marketplace for well over 32 years and are still great sellers.
So those are just a few of the best-known blends that we offer, but I can go on and on.
Dan: Go on! This is good. I wanted to help our overseas listeners visualize non-traditional products. You mentioned packaging, and the introduction of simple, tagless round tea bags remains the standard. Your tins are recyclable, tea bags are biodegradable and compostable, and you use recycled PET if needed.
Kristina: Innovation is a core value at The Republic of Tea in any way we can define it. We’re constantly reminding ourselves to be innovative in our approach when it comes to our tea blends and packaging. At the core is this unbleached paper tea bag. It started with full-leaf tea first and then migrated into the tea bag. The company wanted something without the unnecessary strings tag staples; try to avoid single use if possible, and then something that can be easily compostable or just biodegradable. That value is at the very core of The Republic of Tea. But we also want to be sure that our teas and herbs are kept fresh, so they are made with recyclable steel and are really great to reuse; plus, they’re beautiful, and they look so lovely on people’s kitchen countertops.
Dan: I also noticed a statement on upcycling waste, the appealing example of your Root to Petal blends that use roots and husks to create teas, and the idea of end-of-life and end-of-product-life planning for packaging.
Kristina: We are conscious of what happens after the tea is enjoyed. So we advocate that after you enjoy your cup of tea or herbs, you compost it, put it in your flower bed, and find a way to let it live on, if possible, but also make sure that you’re not contributing to something not having an end of life. Give it a chance to erode or biodegrade or compost in some way.
Dan: The brand is best known in the US and Canada. Do you foresee expansion into overseas markets?
Kristina: Right now, it is the United States, for the most part, but we are always entertaining exploration into different markets abroad. As you know, there are challenges when trying to export tea, especially exporting tea and herbs to certain countries. So, it can be challenging, but it’s always an option; whenever we can make it work, where it’s seamless, and there are good partnerships to help escort The Republic of Tea into new markets, we are always open to that. But there are business challenges that come with exporting internationally, especially with some of the ingredients that we blend with. Certainly, in the future, I can see that exporting will continue to grow, especially as more people are looking for discovery. They want something that they’ve never seen before. They want teas that will thrill them, delight them, that they’ll enjoy. And some of those countries you mentioned, Dan, do have sophisticated palettes. They want to explore more culinary options. They also enjoy this sort of packaging, so we travel to origin and bring tins to show there; it’s always just as appreciated as it is here in the US. So I’d say, to answer your question, in the long term, we are always looking for new ways to bring more citizens to The Republic of Tea worldwide.
Dan: Your continuity with the company is impressive. Messaging certainly changes over 20 years, becoming more perceptive, insightful, and effective, but core values are timeless. I’ve seen lifestyle brands wax and wane, with many companies spending promotional budgets to raise awareness for a good cause. But when the person championing that cause is replaced, it becomes clear that the company isn’t committed at a deeper level. Companies that do not embrace fearless innovation and a commitment to values in their DNA can drift back to social, environmental, and business practices that are not sustainable.
That will be the death of companies going forward.
Kristina: I agree. That is something distinct about The Republic of Tea. Its bones were built with those values and continue to be at our core; our ethos is built around that.
Regarding your question about the future and looking forward to it, it’s absolutely necessary that we all come together as an industry and work towards resolving all of the issues that different countries are battling at the origin.
As tea companies look to the future and how we can help the livelihood of all in the trade, that holistic, intrinsic need to do good for each other is what’s going to make our beautiful industry thrive.
Proposed: A Global Alliance to Creatively Constrain Tea Production | Luxmi Tea Acquires Rwanda’s Sorwathe Tea Estate | TikTok Sensation Inspires Sprite+Tea | PLUS Brazil is a vast beverage market with a well-established tradition of tea and herbal infusions now valued at $14 billion. Growth is powered by evolving health and wellness trends that favor diverse and distant teas and blends. Editor Aravinda Anantharaman interviews veteran importer and retailer Elizeth van der Vorst. Her business, Amigos do Chá (Friends of Tea), is located near São Paulo, the hub of specialty tea, a market she has served for 30 years. Read more…
Proposed: A Global Alliance to Creatively Constrain Tea Production
By Dan Bolton
Africa’s tea stakeholders believe that actions, more than words, are needed to address the global challenges facing the tea industry.
East African Tea Trade Association (EATTA) Managing Director George Omuga said those attending the 6th African Tea Convention understand the need to reduce production to improve quality and raise profitability, which is essential to financing climate resilience and achieving sustainable cultivation at origins worldwide.
He said a key takeaway from the gathering is the need to establish a global alliance of tea-producing countries to enforce creative constraints on production.
Continued…
Omuga cited India’s decision to close factories nationwide for three months beginning November 30 as an example that other producing countries should adopt. He said that growers in the main tea-producing countries of Kenya, Malawi, Tanzania, Rwanda, and Uganda should lower volumes by reducing their pruning cycle to three years from the current practice of four years.
He said attendees stressed the importance of government and tea board collaboration in establishing quality standards for producing quality teas. “Value addition is critical,” he said.
Omuga explained that Africa has a huge potential for increased domestic consumption. Producers should pursue market diversification strategies, including leveraging the African Continental Free Trade Agreement to promote intra-African tea trade.
He said he hopes to persuade tea producers to give the East Africa Tea Trade Association the marketing mandate to create new markets, expand emerging markets, and protect existing markets.
Attendees discussed the negative impact of synthetic fertilizers on soil ecosystems and the importance of reducing reliance on wood for fuel. To promote sustainability, Africa’s 18 tea-producing nations should increase the participation of women in decision-making positions, he said.
The Rwanda Tea Association (RTA), the National Agricultural Export Development Board (NAEB), and EATTA organized this year’s conference in Kigali. The group last convened in Rwanda in 2013.
BIZ INSIGHT—After returning to Mombasa from the conference, EATTA’s George Omuga spoke in depth with Tea Biz on achieving a balanced definition of sustainability based on renewable energy, low-carbon production, and organic inputs. The interview posts Friday, Oct. 25.
Sorwathe Tea Estate and nearby tea factories sold
Luxmi Tea Acquires Rwanda’s Sorwathe Tea Estate
US-based Tea Importers Inc. has sold its majority interest in the Sorwathé Tea Estate in Rwanda to an affiliate of Luxmi Estates of India.
Principal Andrew Wertheim, who announced the sale, writes that Sorwathé supports over 6,000 smallholder tea farmers and employs nearly 2,500 workers in the factory, fields, and forests.
He said this strategic move will positively impact the community, adding that the sale will bring synergies for Luxmi customers buying Sorwathe teas produced at Gisovu, Pfunda, and Rugabano.
Rudra Chatterjee, Managing Director, Luxmi Group, commented: “We hope to build on the work the Wertheim family has done to enhance Sorwathé’s quality and improve realizations for smallholder farmers.
“In Gisovu, Pfunda, and Rugabano, farmer incomes have increased due to better price realizations,” writes Chatterjee, who also chairs the Silverback Tea Company – a joint venture between The Wood Foundation Africa and Luxmi Estates.
In 1972, the Government of Rwanda invited Andrew’s father, Joseph Wertheim, to build a tea factory in Kinihira in Rwanda’s Northern Province. A joint venture agreement was signed in 1975, with US investors owning 51% and the Government of Rwanda 49%. The first stage of the factory was completed in the fall of 1978, and the first tea was sold at a London auction in February 1979.
Sorwathe now produces organic, orthodox, and green teas in addition to CTC teas and is the largest single-producing tea factory in Rwanda. The estate and factories are internationally recognized leaders in Corporate Social Responsibility, having received numerous awards.
“We believe Luxmi Tea Company will carry on our commitment to improving lives through tea while making the needed investments to expand Sorwathe’s production capacity to the next level as the crop increases,” writes Wertheim.
In a letter announcing the sale to customers, Wertheim writes, “It has been almost 50 years since we started in Rwanda, and the decision to leave was not easy. Sorwathe has been a big part of our family. It was our father’s passion as well as ours. We hope you all will continue to support Sorwathe under the leadership of Luxmi Tea Company.”
The sale price was not disclosed. Luxmi, which owns 25 estates, generates more than Rs 1500 crore (an estimated $20 million annually) in sales, approximately half of which comes from domestic sales and half from exports.
TikTok Sensation Inspires Sprite+Tea
Coca-Cola will launch TikTok-inspired Sprite + Tea next spring.
The drink originated as a lemon-lime fusion of Lipton Tea steeped in a bottle of soda that generated 19 million views and thousands of favorable comments. The simple recipe involves jamming two black tea bags into the mouth of a bottle of Sprite. Then, close the lid and refrigerate for three hours while the tea cold brews a palatable variation of the well-known blend of half lemonade and half tea.
New Sprite+Tea and Sprite+Tea Zero Sugar
The short how-to video that Malaysian beverage innovator Hisham Raus posted in July 2023 went viral, accumulating over 125 million impressions in the past year.
Brand owners Coca-Cola took the hint and initiated multiple rounds of consumer research, confirming the combination of citrus offers a “satisfying, Sprite-forward experience with distinct tea flavors.”
Coca-Cola Co. introduced Sprite+Tea at the 2024 National Association of Convenience Stores (NACS) Show and announced a zero-calorie, sweetened version.
Delish.com associate editor Gabby Romero writes that many other people who have already DIY-ed this combination reacted positively to the news.
“We’re in the golden age of soda-based concoctions. With chains like Swig gaining notoriety on reality TV shows and dirty/fluffy recipes going viral online, it’s clear that sweet soft drinks are infinitely customizable,” she wrote.
BIZ INSIGHT—Case volume continues to slide at Coca-Cola. According to the company’s latest financial report, price increases totaling 11% assured quarterly revenue grew by 9% to $11.9 billion. However, sales of soft drinks were flat except for Coca-Cola Zero Sugar, with declines in water (down 6%), sports drinks (down 3%), and coffee (down 6%).
FEATURE
Elizeth van der Vorst tasting teas
Q|A Amigos do Chá Founder Elizeth van der Vorst
By Aravinda Anantharaman
Elizeth van der Vorst has been a Brazilian tea importer since 1994. Her company, Amigos do Chá, embodies her love of tea and its power to bring people together. Elizeth has been our friend at Tea Journey for several years. Among other things, she feels a deep love for India, particularly Darjeeling. In 2022, Elizeth and her husband Gerard made their maiden trip to India, which was years in the planning. She has returned yearly and plans to lead a tour group from Brazil, South America, and Europe to India in 2025. Here, Elizeth speaks about her love for India and why she can’t wait to bring tea lovers here.Read more
Proposed: A Global Alliance to Creatively Constrain Tea Production | Luxmi Tea Acquires Rwanda’s Sorwathe Tea Estate | TikTok Sensation Inspires Sprite+Tea | PLUS Brazil is a vast beverage market with a well-established tradition of tea and herbal infusions now valued at $14 billion. Growth is powered by evolving health and wellness trends that favor diverse and distant teas and blends. Editor Aravinda Anantharaman interviews veteran importer and retailer Elizeth van der Vorst. Her business, Amigos do Chá (Friends of Tea), is located near São Paulo, the hub of specialty tea, a market she has served for 30 years. | Episode 190 | 18 October 2024
Fifty years ago, three industrious Turkish brothers in Havza, near Türkiye’s tea-growing region along the Black Sea, fabricated a modern chromium steel version of the traditional samovar. These storied vessels, fired by wood or coal, brew tea while keeping large volumes of hot water on tap.
The Sözen brothers were skilled copper, bronze, aluminum, and steel metalworkers. Their compact, easily disassembled design for Sözenler Semavers (the Turkish word for tea-urn) is now the nation’s most popular brand.
Years ago, my wife, Susan, presented me with a four-liter Sözenler samovar, ideally suited for enjoying the setting sun. We set it up under the flagpole at our family cottage on Lake of the Woods, a deep and clear 300-mile-long lake in Western Ontario.
In September, as the summer days shorten and the sun begins to fade, our grandchildren stuffed kindling and split pine branches to stuff into the samovar’s gated furnace. We toasted marshmallows before I placed the reservoir over the fire. Next, I extend the chimney. The young boys stoke the furnace with hardwood hickory chips until it burns red hot. Then, I scoop a fine Ceylon tea into a metal teapot that sits neatly in flue amid a steady stream of steam from the boiling reservoir.
Once the tea is brewed into a potent concentrate, we pour it into tin cups and add hot water, sugar, jam, honey, and cream. Unlike an English teapot, everyone can dilute the tea to their taste. Strong or light, creamy or clear, the tea tastes lovely as we sit back in our Adirondack and bid farewell to the sun.
Steam in flue heats teapotRed copper teapotCopper teapot
Ornate Russian samovars, whose name is derived from “camo” samo, meaning “self,” and “varit,” meaning “to boil’,” are better known, but samovars were invented in Central Asia. The utilitarian, easily disassembled version originated in Bukhara, Türkiye. Caravans carried samovars to the Caucasus, where different styles evolved in Russia, Iran, East and Far East Asia, and Anatolia. Turkish samovars are seen at weddings, family picnics, public ceremonies, and outdoor social gatherings in sizes up to 50 liters, with flues supporting four large teapots.
Co-founder Azmi Sözen writing on the company website, describes Sözenlar samovars as “especially for picnics, evening chats, hosting guests specific to Turks, village houses, weddings, associations, and coffee houses. Samovar tea is very famous, and it is drunk in palaces, mansions, hunting parties, and special ceremonies.”
The first documented Russian samovars appeared in the mid-18th century. By 1778, the craftsmen in Tula, located about 200 kilometers south of Moscow, were famous for producing heavy urns of ornate sterling silver, bronze, and distinctive copper teapots. Symbols of Russian hospitality and domesticity, Samovars were family heirlooms.
Co-founder Azmi Sözen
In paintings, copper and bronze samovars with a capacity of 5 to 15 liters appear at the foot of the table, spread with cakes, sugar tongs, and jam, with young and old in conversation over tea.
Persian samovars can be seen in chaikhanas (chaykanas – tea houses) in Tehran, Tabriz, and Isfahan. “Samovar is an indispensable pleasure of Islamic society during Ramadan and long winter nights,” writes Azmi.
Azem, Adem, and Azmi Sözen began making samovars in a small workshop in 1974 and have since expanded to a 6,000-square-meter factory with a public showroom and warehouse. “Our company, which accepts quality as a way of life, has established its power, discipline, self-sacrificing, and reliable trained masters and employees,” according to Sözenler.
“Market expansion did not occur spontaneously,” writes Azmi, but growth continues worldwide. Our mission is to popularize the samovar culture inherited from our ancestors and to pass it on to future generations,” writes Sözenler
“Tea is not just a drink of pleasure but also a culture. Poems, folk songs, and odes were sung in samovar tea ceremonies, which gave people peace and preserved their place in memories.”
Our company, which set out with this understanding, is primarily aware that it is a part of this culture and has increased its production every day to carry the cultural and historical heritage to future generations over time.
Sözenler Semaver showroom and factory, Havza, Türkiye
India Tea News | Aravinda AnantharamanTea bonus protests, arson and looting led to one death and several injured
Kenya’s Annual Tea Bonus Brings Strife
By Dan Bolton
Disappointing bonus payments angered tea workers at several Kenya Tea Development Agency (KTDA) factories and led to violent and, in one instance, deadly protests. Protesting smallholders questioned the accounting and fairness of apportioned funds.
The Nation reports approximately 612,000 small-scale growers qualified for the estimated final bonus for sales through June.
Kenya Tea News reported that Principal Secretary of Agriculture Dr. Paul Rono has directed the Tea Board of Kenya (TBK) to audit all KTDA financial commitments and operations and all its assets.
KTDA National Chairman Enos Njeru reassured smallholder tea farmers that the bonus figures announced by factory directors adhered to the established accounting standards.
Njeru said figures released by the factory companies are prepared in compliance with International Accounting Standards (IAS) and International Financial Reporting Standards (IFRS) as governed by the Institute of Certified Public Accountants (ICPK).
“KTDA Management Service is an ISO-certified company and is bound to comply with these standards for the proper running of factory companies,” Njeru said in a statement.
At the end of the 2023/24 fiscal year, President William Ruto estimated that KTDA earnings had increased by KSh30 billion and predicted that farmers would earn a record average bonus of KSh 70 shillings. The average is far less.
Tea exports set a record $1.4 billion (KSh181 billion) in sales in 2023, a $950 million increase from an outstanding harvest totaling 523 million kilos. A further KSh16.4 billion was sold locally for a total of Ksh197 billion about $1.525 billion USD).
However, the improvement in farmers’ payments this year is mainly due to the devaluation of the shilling, as dollar prices remain flat.
Last October, tea farmers received a Ksh 44 billion bonus in addition to KSh 24 billion in monthly payments totaling Ksh 67.67 billion (about $525 million USD). KTDA manages 69 factories, of which 17 operate as satellite units. KTDA growers harvested 1.13 billion kilos of green leaf and produced 267 million kilos of made tea.
The large export sales total raised expectations, but the annual bonus, calculated for each of the 56 KTDA-owned factories, is based on average annual sales of tea, with fewer monthly payments to growers. The cost of operations and factory overhead is then subtracted, and the remaining sum is distributed based on how many kilos each grower contributed to the total. About 45 million kilos of tea (from roughly 225 million kilos of green leaf) remain unsold.
In Bomet County, a 28-year-old protestor was killed and two others seriously injured when anti-riot police fired on looters who breached the Mogogosiek factory gate In Kirinyaga County, hundreds of tea farmers took to the streets rejecting a KSh 46 per kilo bonus.
Growers carried signs reading “Reject the peanuts” and “Kwani ni mayai,” which in Kiswahili translates as “Is it a payment for eggs?”
At the Miciimikuru factory in Meru County, protesting workers angrily set fire to 12 acres of factory-owned fields after learning their annual tea bonus was only 35 shillings. Factory board chair Stephen Kathiri told Business Daily, “Since last year, we have not sold orthodox tea and are stuck with 786,000 kilograms worth KSh 353 million at the warehouse. This negatively affected our cash flow, leading to lower pay.”
In contrast, workers at the Ngere factory earned 62, those at Nduti 60.9, Imenti 60.3, and Gathuthi 57 shillings (an increase of 13 shillings compared to last year). Workers at the Githongo factory were happy with 56 shillings; at Githambo, they were angry despite a 42 shillings per kilo bonus. This is because the newly elected board estimated the bonus would be 60 shillings when running for election last month, only to disappoint.
At the Gitugi Tea Factory, the board approved the KSh 53 per kilo bonus payment, a KSh 4 reduction from what farmers were paid last year.
The bonuses at factories west of the Great Rift Valley were meager, with workers at eight factories earning less than 25 shillings. Nyamache workers received 20 shillings, as did those at Mokama, Mwamu, Mogogo, Kapset, and Rorok. The average bonus south of the Rift was KSh 23. Bonus payments at Nyeri’s five major KTDA factories ranged from KSh 45.5 to 57.3 shillings per kilo.
“The west of the Rift has been affected more by the building up of stocks due to the minimum price, and its factories are the ones paying the lowest bonus,” writes Alfred Njagi, former Managing Director of KTDA Management Services Ltd.
“There are a few exceptions like Momul, which has a high-quality culture, so it’s pay-is-the-best in the West and even beating some of the factories in the East,” said Njagi.
Nyankoba’s 19,244 growers will be paid a KSh40 bonus per kg of green tea sold by the factory, an increase of Sh5 from the Sh35 they earned from last year’s crop but nowhere near the hundreds of shillings per kilo in final bonuses that were paid to growers in past years.
SPOTLIGHT
Lakeside samovar at Lake of the Woods, Ontario, Canada
Samovar Tea at Sunset
Fifty years ago, three industrious Turkish brothers in Havza near Türkiye’s tea-growing region along the Black Sea, fabricated a modern chromium steel version of the traditional samovar. These storied vessels, fired by wood or coal, brew tea while keeping large volumes of hot water on tap.
The Sözen brothers were skilled copper, bronze, aluminum, and steel metalworkers. Their compact, easily disassembled design for Sözenler Semavers (the Turkish word for tea-urn) is now the nation’s most popular brand.
